Wool Garment Care: How to Make Your Knitwear Last a Lifetime

Have you ever experienced the heartbreak of pulling your favorite sweater out of the wash, only to find it has shrunk to the size of doll clothes? High-quality wool is an investment that, with the right care, can last for decades—retaining its signature softness and warmth even in the harshest maritime conditions. To prevent felting and stretching, woolen garments require a thoughtful, gentle approach.

Wool is a remarkable natural fiber. Thanks to its lanolin content, it is inherently resistant to dirt and odors. Unlike synthetic fabrics, wool doesn’t need to be laundered after every use; often, simply hanging a garment in the fresh air is enough for the fibers to breathe and recover. However, when a deep clean becomes necessary, this guide will help you navigate the process to keep your knitwear looking as good as the day you bought it.

How to Wash Woolen Clothes Correctly

Before you begin, always check the care label to determine the best cleaning method for that specific piece. If the item is machine-washable, use a dedicated “wool cycle” designed for delicate fibers. Wool is incredibly sensitive to thermal shock and excessive friction—the two primary culprits behind irreversible felting.

• Temperature Control: Stick to lukewarm water, ideally 30°C. Standard cycles often default to 40°C or higher, which causes wool fibers to contract and lose their elasticity.
• The Right Detergent: Only use specialized, Woolmark-certified, or pH-neutral wool detergents. Regular laundry detergents contain enzymes designed to break down organic stains, but on wool, these same enzymes will break down the fabric’s natural proteins, making it brittle over time.
• Preparation: Turn the garment inside out before washing to protect the surface and maintain its premium finish. Be sure to empty all pockets, remove detachable accessories, and secure all zippers and buttons.

For your most delicate pieces, hand washing is the safest bet. Soak the item for about 10 minutes in lukewarm water, but never rub, scrub, or wring the fabric. Instead, gently squeeze the garment to circulate the soapy water through the fibers. Always wash dark and light colors separately to avoid any dye transfer.

Drying Without Losing the Shape

The drying stage is perhaps the most critical part of wool care. Because wet wool is heavy and highly elastic, knitwear should never be hung on a coat hanger or a clothesline. Doing so will cause the weight of the water to pull the shoulders out of shape and permanently stretch the garment. This rule applies to everything from fine merino wool to chunky wool blends.

For knitwear, the only proper method is flat drying. Lay the garment on a clean, dry towel over a flat surface, gently reshape it by hand, and allow it to air dry naturally. Keep it away from direct sunlight and radiators, as intense heat can make wool fibers coarse and brittle. To remove excess moisture after washing, roll the garment inside a towel and press down firmly—never wring or twist the fibers.

Woven wool items, such as structured jackets and coats, can be dried on wide, padded hangers. However, you must always avoid the tumble dryer. A dryer is the fastest way to ruin a luxury garment, leading to significant shrinkage and fiber damage.

Storage and Daily Maintenance

To ensure that high-quality women’s knitwear and classic men’s sweaters stay in peak condition, give them a “rest” between wears. We recommend leaving a woolen item for at least 24 hours before wearing it again; this allows the fibers to relax and naturally return to their original shape. This simple habit preserves the fabric’s elasticity and significantly extends the life of the piece.

When storing your woolens, keep these tips in mind:

• Cleanliness First: Before packing clothes away at the end of the season, make sure they are spotless. Residual food stains or invisible body oils are the primary attractants for moths.
• Protection: Use airtight bags or storage bins to protect wool from moisture and pests. Adding cedarwood blocks or lavender sachets provides a natural and effective moth repellent.
• Fold, Don’t Hang: Store sweaters and ponchos folded on a shelf rather than on a hanger. Long-term hanging will eventually distort the garment’s proportions, particularly around the neckline and shoulders.

For brands like Pelle Petterson and Holebrook, it is helpful to occasionally brush the surface with a soft garment brush. This removes surface dust and fuzz before they have a chance to settle into the fibers as stains.

Stain Removal and Refreshing

If you spill something on your wool, act fast but stay calm. Rather than tossing the whole sweater in the wash, try to spot-clean the area. Use cool water and a tiny drop of wool detergent, gently dabbing the stain from the outside in to prevent it from spreading.

For stubborn stains or structured wool jackets, like those found in Henri Lloyd collections, professional dry cleaning once a season is the best approach. This is especially important before long-term storage. When dealing with wrinkles at home, never press a hot iron directly onto dry wool. Instead, use a garment steamer or the steam function on your iron, holding it just above the fabric so the moisture can relax the fibers without scorching them.

A pro tip for refreshing a sweater is to hang it in the bathroom while you take a hot shower. The steam is an excellent way to smooth out creases and lift light odors without a full wash. For more technical advice, see our overview of marine clothing materials or read our comprehensive marine clothing maintenance guide, which covers everything from wool to waterproof membranes.

A well-cared-for wool garment is a reliable companion both at sea and on land, providing unparalleled warmth and comfort. Explore our collection of high-quality knitwear and find a piece you can enjoy for decades to come.